I crossed the Afghanistan – Tajikistan borders twice in one month this year with no issues, speaking from a woman’s experience. This post shares some information about crossing the borders from Tajikistan to Afghanistan. It was difficult for me to find information about shared taxis at the Panj-e Payon, Tajikistan border. Some travelers had some issues at the borders, which made me a bit nervous before the trip. I realized policies constantly change in Afghanistan since many things are not yet settled. What is written here might change the next week. The Foreigners Registration Card system has been implemented recently and it might change next year.
Women’s Dress Code
In Tajikistan, I wear casual long pants and a short-sleeved shirt. Religious places would ask for long sleeves and long pants. In Afghanistan, many changes in controlling women’s outfits, which I observed from cities to villages. I wore a Turkish ready-made hijab and a Tajik kurta with 3/4 sleeves. I bought the Tajik kurta and pants at Sakhovat Bazaar in Dushanbe. It cost 110 sonomi. The fabric is light for the hot weather and it is right on the knee length. I had no issues wearing this outfit. Maybe an abaya looks more suitable in Kabul but in Northern Afghanistan, I felt ok. I went to mosques and walked around Mazar-i-Sharif in the Tajik kurta and my Turkish ready-made hijab. I strongly recommend a ready-made hijab or a Malaysian hijab.
***A new policy in Afghanistan required women to cover their faces. A black mask is what local women wear if not a niqab.
Which borders are open now?
Tajikistan Border: Panj-e Payon (How to get there?)
Panj-e Payon is the ONLY border open between Tajikistan and Afghanistan. Paj-e Payon is located in southern Tajikistan. I took a private taxi from Dushanbe to the border. It cost $80, which I split with another traveler. The taxi ride takes about 3 hours. It is smooth and there is not much traffic. If you travel on Sunday, it is market day. Many Tajiks travel from nearby villages to do their weekly shopping. Only agree with your taxi driver before the trip, otherwise, he will not stop at any market. The taxi picked me up at 7 AM as we agreed and arrived at 10 AM.
Private Taxi from Dushanbe to Panj – e Payon cost $80 ONE WAY!
Shared Taxi between travelers – Check with your guesthouse and taxi drivers.
Shared taxi with locals – Karaboev Avenue, Dushanbe (shared by a traveler who took the shared taxi to the border.)
Tajik Immigration Office
The Tajik border was quiet at 10 AM. Only two cement trucks were waiting for the barrier arms to open. After getting out of the taxi and putting on my backpack, a security officer checked my passport and lifted the barrier arm for me to enter the immigration office. After walking through the metal fence, it takes us to the immigration office. Put your luggage through the baggage scanner, at the meantime, a female officer registered my passport information in a large, ruled register book. Then go to the immigration officer window. At this time, several Afghanis joined us in the window queue.
Any issues with the immigration officer? I stayed in Tajikistan for two days and free visa entry. The immigration did not ask me any questions. It took him about 5 – 10 minutes to scan and stamp my passport. The same process for the people whom I observed during my time in the office. They were Afghani, Afghani-Kaza, American, German, and Japanese.
Afghanistan Border: Shar Khan Bander & Visa on Arrival
When speaking to tourism officials in Eshkishim, Afghanistan, they are uncertain when the Eshkishim border will reopen. Currently, Shar Kahn Bander in Northern Afghanistan is the ONLY border open for crossing to Tajikistan.
Crossing Bridge to the Afghanistan Border
Minivan from the Tajikistan border to the Afghanistan Border: After you exit the Tajik immigration office, wait for the minivan in the waiting shelter. It might take 15 to 20 minutes for the minivan to arrive. On a burning hot day, I do not want to cross the bridge on foot. The minivan driver asks for 10 Tajik somoni.
Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Afghanistan Office: Visa on Arrival
Office Hours: 8 AM – 9 PM; Lunchtime: 12 PM; Prayer times:
Welcome to Afghanistan! Upon arrival, there are NO signboards directing you to the foreign affairs office. The Tajik minivan driver stops at the Afghani waiting shelter. The office is on your right side within a short walking distance, which is after the vehicle checkpoint. There are two security officers by the waiting shelter. They could be helpful for direction to the Ministry’s office. The border is quiet and has no hassles. Only a handful of Afghani and tourists, and trucks use this border to cross.
Afghani Visa on Arrival
**This is speaking from experience at the Shar Khan Bander Border. I have not used Kabul airport nor crossed the Afghanistan – Pakistan borders.
Obtaining an Afghani visa on arrival at the border is complex and time-consuming. Make sure to expect you would spend 4 hours here. I heard stories that the visa process could take up to 8 hours. It depends on the process and network. The Afghani officers are not straightforward about the timeframe for visa issuance. Based on my research and understanding, all passports are required to obtain an Afghani visa on arrival, except Afghan passports. Visa services are available at Afghan embassies or consulates in Dubai, Peshawar (Pakistan), Dakar (Bangladesh), and other locations.
What do you need to obtain an Afghani Visa? 1) 2 Passport photos; 2) $100; 3) carry a pen
At 10:45 AM, we entered a seemingly abandoned garden, where the Ministry of Foreign Affairs office is located. Put your luggage in the garden, walk up the steps, and remove your shoes, and someone will direct you to the minister. He is a polite 30-something young man, speaks English and some German, who is sitting in a sofa chair at the center of the room. This room is the only room that has an aircon. From my observation, the Afghani officer took a photo of my passport and sent it to an authority, who issues visas in Kabul, using WhatsApp.
After an hour and a half, he told us to deposit $100 into the provided account in the Maiwand bank, which is just a kilometer away. The assistant offered to take a single Japanese traveler to the bank by motorbike. There are autos and cars outside of the gate you could take.
Later at 1 PM. After we showed the minister the deposit receipt, now we can fill out a visa application and attach your passport photo. He requested a second passport photo for Foreigner Registration Card. Now I saw the minister scanned our passport in a scanner and saved it in his desktop folder. Soon, he printed out my Afghani visa and pasted it on my passport. NOW, I felt like nearing the end of the process. Other travelers in this office, including Japanese, German, and American received 30-day, single entry visa.
It depends on the process. An Afghani-Kazakh family of four was still in the ministry office after four hours.
Foreigners Registration Card
Over talking with some tourists who had been to Afghanistan previously, I was told that this registration card is a new policy. It is the size of your identification card and has your passport photo glued on it with the date of entry into Afghanistan and the expiration date. I showed this to all the ministries of information and tourism as proof.
Afghani Immigration Office
Back in the waiting shelter, everyone was waiting and sitting on the bench. It was prayer time. The wire lane next to the shelter on your left takes you to the immigration officer and security check. Women go behind the curtain. You can take a seat, fix your hijab, and take a breath. The woman security approaches you and does her search. Then you open your luggage, she searches throughout, and you repack your stuff.
Repack all the stuff, walk to the window with your passport, and the officer checks and stamps it.
The Final Final Security Check before your exit to the taxi stand and money exchange: the security guard checks your visa, passport, and luggage. But he would not check women’s luggage if it had already checked by the woman security guard.
At 2-something PM, I finally crossed the borders.
Useful Information
Accommodation: If you decide to spend a night in Kunduz, Kunduz Hotel is your best option. The second one is the Five Start Hotel ($45). I had stayed in both. Five Star Hotel’s furniture and amenities are newer than the Kunduz Hotel. I felt secure and comfortable in both.
Transportation: There are taxis to Kunduz. Take a taxi to Kabul and Mazar-i-Sharif Station, where you take a shared taxi to Mazar-i-Sharif. It costs 350 Afghani.
Cash/ATM: NO ATM. Bring dollars and the money exchanger is near the taxi station when you exit the borders
Food/Water: Bring water and some snacks with you when you are crossing the borders. You never know if your visa process will take longer. Stores are outside of the gate. The officers will give you water if you ask.
With an Afghani visa in your passport, concerned about issues with other immigration officers?
I entered U.S. immigration without issues. When I boarded my flight in Istanbul, Turkey, no one interrogated me. I did not have an issue with Iceland immigration. I might be worried about Indian and Australian immigration because I used to have several Yemeni visas in my old passport. I was interrogated and raised their eyebrows. Travelers I met expressed concerns about applying for a Russian visa with an Afghanistan visa.
In my guesthouse, a traveler told me that if you have an Afghanistan visa, Uzbek immigration officers would give you problems. I was concerned but it turned out to be fine.
There are too many uncertainties in this country and its relations with the neighbors and the world.
