Shir Khan Bandar is the only border open for crossing to Tajikistan.
This post shares information about crossing the border from Afghanistan to Tajikistan. The tour agencies are waiting patiently for the Eshkishim, Afghanistan border to reopen. I crossed the Shir Khan Bandar, Afghanistan – Paj-e Payon, Tajikistan borders twice in one month with no issues, speaking from a woman’s experience. It was difficult for me to find information about shared taxis at the Panj-e Payon, Tajikistan border.
Policies constantly change in Afghanistan since many things are not yet settled. What is written here might change the next week. The Foreigner Registration Cards issue to tourists recently and might change next year.
How to get to Shir Khan Bandar?
Kunduz is a city about a one-hour drive from the border. It is the nearest hub for connections to other cities. Kabul and Mazar-i-Sharif Station is the final stop for shared taxis unless otherwise negotiated with the driver. Private taxis are available. Your hotel can arrange it for you.
Shared Taxi from Mazar-i-Sharif to Kunduz costs 350 Afghani.
Private taxis from Mazar-i-Sharif to Shir Khan Bandar costs 3,500 ($50). You could negotiate for 3,000 Afghani.
Afghanistan Immigration Office
When the taxi driver drops off at the gate to the Shar Khan Bandar border, a security guard(s) checks the passport, and luggage, and asks:” Where did you come from?” I showed him the permit issued by the minister of tourism from the last city I visited. I am not sure if he could read but to show him that I have some legal documents here. It seems like officials like to check documents.
The metal fence passageway goes to the immigration office. The guard in the office signals me to go behind the curtains for women. Unlike when I entered Afghanistan, this time, the assistant of the female guard took all my belongings out and dug very deep pockets, unzipped small pouches.
**My tour guide warned me not to take more than $300 in my wallet. There are higher chances that the officials would take it. If you have experienced it, please share it!
** On a separate day, The officials checked my male friend’s camera and phone for any unpleasant photos of Afghani women. They will delete it in front of you if they consider it inappropriate.
The process was fast. The office copied down my passport information and stamped it in 15 minutes. Exit the office on the other door.
Waiting Shelter for Minivan
I do not walk across this bridge to the Tajikistan border. I waited in the shelter for the minivan. The waiting time varies. I waited for about 30 minutes. It costs 10 somonis in Tajik currency ($1).
Where to stay in Kunduz?
If you decide to spend a night in Kunduz, Kunduz Hotel is your best option. The second one is the Five Start Hotel ($45). I had stayed in both. Five Star Hotel’s furniture and amenities are newer than the Kunduz Hotel.
Tajikistan Immigration Office
I have free visa entry to Tajikistan. First, give the passport to the female officer, she copies all the information in her ruled notebook. In the meantime, scan bags in the security scanner. Last, pick up your luggage, and passport, and go to the immigration window. I did not experience any issues here. The officer did not ask me any questions.
Taxi from Panj-e Payon to Dushanbe
After exiting the immigration office, the taxi station is about 600 meters away. Some locals love to share taxis to save money and do not want to walk on a hot noonday. We shared a taxi to the taxi stand, where several taxis parked under the trees. Drivers played billard at the restaurant across the street. I agreed with a local that we all share a taxi to Dushanbe but they negotiated the price. They started with the price of 400 somoni for 3 people to Dushanbe but drivers refused to go. It takes about 3 hours on a no-traffic day.
After one hour, they are still negotiating and waiting for the 4th person. It took almost 2 hours for the drivers to agree that one minivan driver should take seven passengers. It costs 250 sonomi.
Private Taxi from Panj – e Payon to Dushanbe costs $80 – $100 ONE WAY! per car
Shared Taxi – 200 – 250 somoni (depends on negotiation and number of passenger)
