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Gujarat – 10 Days Itinerary


    10 Days Gujarat Itinerary takes you to historical walks in Vadodara, Bhuj, and Ahmedabad.

    This short trip is part of a 22 days trip to Gujarat and Madya Pradesh. These cities are about 7 hours’ drive apart. Taking the night bus and night train is the only way to save time. I stayed in homestay and budget hotels.
     
    I planned this trip to trace the footsteps of the Gujarati traders. Gujaratis were successful traders from the late 15th to 18th centuries in the Indian Ocean They involved in trading textiles, ivory, coffee, and gold, and to an extent, they also participated in a small scale of the slave trade. Chhaya Goswami’s book on Gujarati merchants from Kachchh (Kutch) gives you an introduction to their world
     

    It’s not everyone is vegetarian in Gujarat but 70% of populations are. You will still find restaurants serve meat. 

    10 Days Gujarat Itinerary

    Top 5 Experiences

    • Walk bare foot on the great Rann of Kutch
    • Historical walk on the labyrinth Ahmedabad Old Quarter
    • Imagine the glorious day in Lakhpat Fort
    • Visiting Artisans around Bhuj and take a block-printing and fabric dying workshop 
    • Fill your stomach with Gujarati Thali

    Best Time to Visit

    October to February are the best months to visit. When the monsoon end in late September, the fresh air drives in. It was hot in noon but still delightful to walk around the city. In February, Bhuj is already burning in noon. These are the best months for outdoor activities.

    April to June are not the best time to visit desert areas since temperature ascends to as high as 39 Celcius. It might be a good time for camping or visit the coastal area. 

    July to September’s monsoon cool down the air a little bit. The wave is strong during the monsoon in Arabia Ocean. 

    Getting Around

    Flights

    Ahmedabad’s international airport connects to many international airlines. And the domestic airport links to Vadodara and Bhuj. Only Air India from Delhi and Indigo fly to Vadodara from Bangalore, Chennai, Delhi, Hyderabad, Indore, Kolkata, and Mumbai.

    Bhuj does not have an international airport. Only Air India operates domestic flights from major cities to Bhuj. Another nearest airport is Kandla about 45 km, only Spicejet operates flights.

    Find affordable flights around India on cleartrip.com or makemytrip.com

    Bus

    Daily bus runs between Ahmedabad to Bhuj and Vadodara. Overnight bus is the best option to catch up some sleep and arrive in the early morning. Sahjanand Travels and Patel Travels are recommended by Gujarat Tourism. If you travel on budget, the state transport buses are alternative to this.

    Bus booking at Redbus.in 

    Train

    Trains between Vadodara to Bhuj operates twice on a daily basis, the others on a weekly basis. The Bhuj Ac SF Express is the fastest train pass by Vadodara in the early morning 4:50 am and reaches Bhuj at 13:15pm. The journey takes 8 hours 25 minuets. The last train is Kutch Express that leaves at 23:45pm and reaches Bhuj at 9:25am. Other than this, there are about 6 weekly trains runs between this route.

    Bhuj to Ahmedabad is a 6 to 8 hours train ride. Sandra Terminus Ac SF Express operates on Monday, Thursday, and Saturday. It begins at 15:05 and reaches Ahmedabad at 22:10.

    IRCTC is the Indian railway corporation. Register an account and book under Foreigner Quota.

    Make your booking at cleartrip.com or 12go.Asia

    Where to Stay?

    The Gujarat Tourism Office shares a list of hotels and homestay across the state. It’s very convenient to find a homestay. I chose homestays at Bhuj and Vadodara from this list. You can call or email the homestay for availability.

    Find your Homestay and accomondation at gujarattourism.com

    Vadodara

    Arudh Mahal Homestay  owned by Mr. Shital Vijaybhai Pawar’s family. The white-washed mansion is behind a busy street and walking distance to the old quarter. (+91 99980 34545)
    Madhav Bagh – Royal Heritage Stay finished with Indian and modern design provide a cozy and boutique experience.
    Laxmi Vilas Palace

    Bhuj

    Mr. Labhashankar Keshavlal Joshi’s homestay is in Lohar Chowk, walking distance to the old city, and jewelry and fabric market. Prag Mahal Palace is a walking distance.  (+91 9638236606/+919825000000) 
    The Bhuj House is the ancestral home of the Bhujwala family, with a Parsi originate, built in the 1860s. The house is about 2 km from the market, is a home away from home place to stay.
    Sharad Baug Homestay is owned by the grandson of the last ruler of Kutch, Sri Madansinhji. It’s in a quiet garden near Harmirsar Lake. 
    Kutir Craft Village Resort operates traditional huts made of mud with colorful patterns in the interior  If you come with a car, this is a place to stay away from the city for village experience.  (+919879432076)

    Ahmedabad

    Deewanji ni Haveli tucked in the old city neighborhood, about 5 minutes walk to the Old Stock Market Ahmedabad. Heritage House in Ahmedabad is in the same neighborhood about 10 minutes walk to the old Stock Market.
    French Haveli offers rooms from several havelis in the old city Ahmedabad that offers a unique experience with its own decorates.

    Day 1 Vadodara

    was a former Indian state rule by Gaekwad Dynasty for 200 years. 

    Things to Do 

    Nava Bazar
    Raopura Tower
    Shree Kathiyawadi Khadki  for Kathiawadi thali

    Boutiques Shops

    Baroda Print
    Sejal Handicrafts
    Seasons Apparels

    Arrived in late afternoon, it was still bright day light. I explored the bustling Nava Bazar and Raopura Tower , which are on the same street, about one kilometer away from each other.

    Nava Bazaar is just a small part of the commercial hub that revolves around the Shiva Statue lake and stretched to Mandvi Gate . At the opposite end of the lake, is the Kanherao Market . You can explore these two landmarks on Day 2.

    Presumably, you end your day at Raopura Tower, walk to Shree Kathiyawadi Khadki for Kathiawadi thali. Kathiawadi is a cuisine of the Kathis. Southern Gujarate area that uses main cooking ingredients potatoes, eggplants, and jaggery, etc., not much of leafy vegetables.

    DAY 2 Vadodara: Things to do

    Places of Interest

    Lakshmi Vilas Palace 
    Old city Gates
    Khanderao Market 

    To beat the crowds and hot sun, be the first one to visit Lakshmi Vilas Palace at 10:30 am. Built by Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III in 1890 in Indo-Saracenic revival style, the lavish palace begins the tour at the lawn and enjoy a good view of the palace. Take the audio guide! 

    Lunch at Mandap  for a Gujarati Thali. If you crave for South Indian thosai/dosa, visit Milkton’s South Corner.

    Old City Vadodara

    The old city is marked by four entrance gates in each direction as part of the extinct fort “Kila-e-Daulatabad” : Lehripura Gate , Geni Gate , Champaner Gate (North) , and Pani Gate (east) . Lehripura Gate considers as the most embellished gate, with elaborated balconies.

    Tip: Book a Ola (India’s Uber) or Auto rickshaw to any of the gate to begin your old city tour. 

    Heritage Walk: Open vadodarabyfoot.com in your phone,  follow the recommendation route that accompanies by English audio. 

    Follow Me

    I began my tour from Mandvi Gate , which is not a gate but rather a pavilion. On my visit, the gate served the purpose of a prayer place. Statue of gods on the pooja mandir “prayer cupboard,” devotees circled, waiting for a chance to pray. Mandvi Market is a place for traditional leather footwear, those you find in Bandra Mumbai, at a cheaper price.

    It is said that the Jama Masjid used to host Asia’s biggest Quran, written by saint Mohammed Ghauz in the 18th century but it has transferred to Darul Uloom Seminary. The Masjid is tucked in the roll of shops in an alley that could easily be missed, yet decorative Islamic carving on the entrance gate might make you look twice back.

    Khanderao Market

    If you are tired, take an auto-rickshaw to the market. The market was completed in 1906, the ground floor is for vegetable and fruit markets located in the courtyard. You can walk to the courtyard, and look at the structure of the market.

    Snacks

    Walk down to Canara Coffee House  for a cup of thick milk tea. If you are in the Khanderao Market area, walk 650 meters to Shri Guruprasad Restaurant for Jamun ice cream (seasonal) and stuffing dosa. Visit Jay Mahakali Sev Usal for some signature snacks, sevsal.

    More Days in Vadodara?

    Tambekar Wada is a three-story building in a wada style (North Karnataka and some part of Maharashtra) built around the 19th century. The Wada preserves some of the colorful story panels painted in various styles. 

    Jewish were hired as soldiers by Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III since 1850. A historical graveyard is known as Yehudi Kabristan in Nizampura. The cemetery, unfortunately, its historical value has been neglected. 

    Day 3 A Day Trip to Champaner

    Places of Interest

    Hike to the Mahakali Mata Mandir  follow the donkey caravan
    Jami Masjid
    Nagina Masjid
    Sahar Ki Masjid
    Citadel walls

    Setting Vadodara as a home base allows taking day trips outside of the city. I checked out of my homestay and left my backpack there. 

    Champaner Archaeological Park can be explored by walk and public transportation. I took a public bus from Vadodara central bus station. I took the bus that leaves around 7:30 am and arrived at 9 am. It’s better to arrive early to beat the heat and it’s a long day to be here. 

    In Champaner, I used shared auto-rickshaw to hop around the sites. Only one main road, so it is convenient to hop on and off rickshaw. I finished the tour at 3:30 pm and returned to Vadodara at 5 pm to catch the bus to Bhuj.

    How to Get There?

    Car

    It would be a hassle-free trip to Champaner if you hire a car or on your own. The major points are near the bus stop. Some of them are scattered around the area.

    Bus

    If you are budget traveler, public transportation is the best option. Bus leave every half an hour from Vadodara Central Bus Station to Champaner. The ST (State Transport) Bus to Pavagadh takes about 1.5 hours. Many pilgrims come for Mahakalika Mata Temple. Booking is not required.

    Get Around by Walk or Auto-Rickshaw

    Champaner is walkable to the major sites and the only village. Otherwise auto rickshaw is the only option, available for share or hire to Halol.

    Where to Eat?

    Halol , the major town, is about 7 kilometers from the archaeological park. Small eateries and tea shops are around the bus stop and in the village. It’s recommended to bring your water and snacks.

    What to See?

    Mahakali Mata Mandir

    At 9:30am already climbing up the stairs to the temple with a small crowds. The temple hosts the goddess Kalika. It is about 5 kilometers from the bus stop Pavangdh. Hop on shared transport with the pilgrims that goes to the Pavagad Fort’s Entry point.

     I enjoyed greatly taking the steps uphill. Donkey caravans climb up to delivery goods to temple stalls. On the stairs, many stalls sell prayer goods. Many red-finger prints on every steps. Ruins on the mountains.

    Ropeway is another option accessible from the entry point, takes to hill top station, where are many shops sell prayer goods. Temple is built on the highest point of the mountain. A long queue walks slowly up to the temple. On the highest point, a panorama view of the old kingdom.

    Upon your return to the Pavangdh bus stop, enjoy a cup of chai at the food stall and some snacks. 

    Champaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park

    A historical city found in the 8th century by Vanraj Chavda, king of the Chavda Dynasty. There are 114 monuments in the area. If you come in a car, you might be able to visit most of them, such as Ek Minar Ki Masjid is tucked in the surrounding of forest. 

    Opposite of the main bus stop is the entrance to the park. Get a ticket from the park ticket office to begin your tour. Ruins of citadel walls and large arched entrance welcome you to the heritage site. Villagers fly through in motorcycle. This takes you to the private mosque of the royal family, Saher-Ki-Masjid .

    Metal direction boards point to each heritage site along the way to Jami Masjid . This small village has three streets, see the cow begging for food standing outside villagers’ home. The extravagant relief mixed of Hindu and Islamic design and the great domes are most worthwhile to spend time walk around the mosque. Against the landscape of the area, the green garden is well-maintained with lush green grass and pink flowers.  You could pick a nice stop to rest and stare at the monument.

    There are several basic guesthouse in this village and in the main town. If you prefer to stay back and explore the history of architectures. 

    Where to go next? 

    Khambhat was once a flourishing trade city. It was mentioned in Marco Polo and Ibn Battuta’s travelogues between late 13th and 14th century respectively. 

    Day 4 Bhuj: Historical Walk

    This basic four days guide scratches the surface of Bhuj and surroundings. Kutch holds a special corner in every visitor’s heart. 

    As the capital and commercial hub of Kutch, Bhuj has expanded beyonds it’s fort wall. I spent two days walking around the city. I’d say only the old city area is great for walking but easily get lost in the labyrinthine, narrow lanes.  

    Kutch has a rich culture in art that makes it famous for handicrafts such as block-printing, embroidery and leather work, as well as music and dance. Some skills pass down generations, and the youngest family members are working to preserve the legacies with innovation.

     

    Places of Interest

    Prag Mahal Palace
    Aina Mahal  
    Gates
    Bazaars 

    Historical Walk

    The walk begins from Darbaar Gadh, aka palace complex. Protecting by fort walls Prag Mahal Palace  and Aina Mahal Palace show a great contrast in architectural style. Aina Mahal, aka Hall of Mirrors, built in the 18th century, some part of it has been destroyed in 2001 earthquake.  The Prag Mahal is a 19th-century palace. Look up to fort wall as walking down to Darbaar Gadh, and Toraniyu Gate welcomes you to the complex. Find the two angles reliefs on the gate. 

    Outside of the palace compound, in less than 10 minutes walk, you will get to the Gujarat Pollution Board building .  The purpose of this building has two versions but it was a school earlier. Fateh Mohammed’s House stands alone in a deserted-garden, that built in the late 18th century after he rose to be the “Diwan” in 1786. Although the house is locked, look at the window and wall ornaments. It’s said that he is buried behind this house. 

    In 100 meters, Patwadi Gate is on your left side. Walk around Harmirsar Lake, but the lake water is dried in wintertime. Locals like to sit on the lake bank and hang out here. Many fast-food vendors line up here. In big garden, there stands SharadBaug Palace. A small part converts to a museum. 

    As crossing the bridge, you will notice a fort tower and a tall white-washed minaret enclose in. That’s Mohammad Pannah Masjid, one of the oldest mosques in Bhuj. The entrance is behind Mahadev Gate. 

    Continue the walk to Mahadev Gate .  I had enough for today. 

    Find a teashop for rest and enjoy a cup of chai! Tomorrow will take you to the markets of old city. 

    Where to eat?

    • Pooja Dining Hall  for vegetarian Gujarati thali
    •  BINHARIF Dabeli Wala  for dabeli

     

    DAY 5 Bhuj Old City and Markets

    Places of Interest

    Vegetable Market Building 
    Bazaars

    Livelihoods created outside of the Darbaar Gadh. I began my tour from Old Vegetable Market . Not to surprise the market inside is not crowded as many vendors are outside of the building. 

    Bhuj is not my final destination, I can only buy small items fit into my backpack. Silver jewelry is a good option.  Saraf Bazaar Rd is famous for jewelry, and other silver lifestyle commodities. Piles of new and vintage embroidery tucked in small shops. Explore the side streets, you might find something you like. 

    Usually, families come together to shop for jewelry. As walking down, the enormous nose ring wore by Jat women and her heavy silver necklace caught my attention. It’s comparable to the Harijan women’s spiral necklace and enormous anklets. 

    SIDR Craft  has one of the finest Bandhani (tie-dye) owned by Abdul Jabber Khatri and his brother. 

    Where to eat?

    Walk to Farsan Dunia for popular Indian sweets. 

    Noorani Restaurant serves tandoori and North Indian food. 

    Day 6 Around Bhuj: Great Rann & Villages

    Rann is a salt marshland close to the border with Pakistan, inhabited by many communities. So often to see herbs of camels, buffalos, and goats crossing highway guarded by local women or men. During monsoon season, the desert is buried in water. Full moon in Rann  is exceptional beauty. Glitz deserted land under moon light.

    How to Get Around?

    Option 1: I’d recommend you to arrange a driver or guide for your trip to Rann of Kutch and Khavda, Hodka, and Nirona; it’s a package on request. Experienced drivers know all the artisans’ homes; you have to remind him if you want to visit some artisan centers. Usually, drivers’ English is limited to professional usage.

    I booked a driver with help from homestay to visit Lakhpat fort and Rann of Kutch about 2000 INR a day (civic). Each trip takes up a whole day. I set Bhuj as my travel base. If you on a tight schedule, it would be better to move from destination to destination than setting a travel base. You will see more of the Gujarat coast.
    Amazing Kutch Tourism +91 99747 33551
    Laxmi Tours and Travels
     +91 94261 36955

    Tip: It might take you a several calls to get a driver for next day. Book early.

    Option 2: Scooter Rental
    MK Auto  

    Permits

    White Rann Permit Office
    Carry a copy of your passport & original  

    Rann of Kutch

    Mohammed, my driver, picked me up in morning 8:30. On the way to Great Rann, we stop by Khavada village and few tea shops. Mohammed made sure I tried the Mawa cake made out from boiling milk at Bhirandiyara. Great Rann is a heat up oven in February noon.

    Villages

    Villages are like open art galleries. Artists work in an open-door studio. You can engage with them.

    Beginner’s Guide to Artisan Villages I

    Sumeraser

    Khavda  pottery/ Ajrakhpur

    • Bhilal Khatri – block printing
    • Damabhai Marwada – rug weaver 

    Nirona Rogan Art/ Copper Bell

    Nature & Wildlife 

    The Banni and Chhari Dhand is place to see migratory birds during monsoon.
    Khadir Bet Flamingo City (surkhab nagar) 

    Day 7

    Around Bhuj: Artisan Villages

    Beginner’s Guide to Artisan Villages II 

    Tip: It’s recommended to make a appointment before visit. Artists’ studios share space with living. 

    Bhujodi Village weaving

    • Vankar Vishram Valji 
    • Babubhai Ratansinh Vanodia Vankar – ask around for his home
    • Handloom Design Center
    • Shrujan  
    • Haria Laxmi Craft Park

    Ajrakhpur block-printing

     

    How to Get There?

    Option 1 Hire an auto-rickshaw for one day from Old Railway Station Road

    Option 2 Take shared auto-rickshaw from Old Railway Station Road. It’s cheap to do this way. You are free to explore the villages. The cons is a long waiting time for shared auto-rickshaw to next village in the hot sun and dusty highway. 

    Bhujodi village about a kilometer away from the entrance. Rickshaw is for hire for 50 INR

    Option 3 Catch a local bus toward Ahmedabad and ask the driver to drop you at Bhujodi. 

    Handicraft Tour 

    Tour is one of the best ways to experience and learn the making-process while engaging with artisans. 

    Day 8

    Around Bhuj: Lakhpat Fort

    Places of Interest

    Lakhpat Fort 
        Lakhpat Gurudwara Sahib
       4 Gates 2 windows
       Custom House
       Pir Ghaus Muahmmed’s Shrine
    Narayan Sarovar

    It’s about 3 hours drive from Bhuj to Lakhpat. The road is relatively quiet, with villages on both side of the road, and many herbs crossing the road. 

    Once was a prosperous fort for a short period in the 19th century and a deserted fort now, Lakhpat was built by Fateh Mohammed. The fort hosts three religions, namely Hindu, Islam, and Sikh, that manifested the diversity of the traders and labors.

    On the far edge of India’s Arabia Sea, only 30km to border with Pakistant, ships arrived from Sindh, East Africa, and other ports of India unloaded goods in Katha Varo Gate then transported to the fort through Bibidullah door, that guarded by two soldiers’ status. Katha Varo Gate is no longer accessible nowadays.  The main gate’s remarkable height of arch built for camel caravans. 

    The earthquake occurred in 1819 changed the flow of Indus river and brought to the fall of Lakhpat. A vast marshland is seemed beyond the fort walls and guarded by border polices today.

     The fort is too big to walk from gate to gate. Your driver will take you by car to the places of interest. 

    A long shot of Pir Ghaus Muhammad’s shrine, who was a Sufi saint and Syyed of Lakhpat. The caretaker of the shrine pass down for generations. 

    Lakhpat Gurudwara Sahib is built in the 19th century to commonrrate Guru Nanak. He visited Lakhpat before embarked his second and fourth journey to Mecca. His relics consists of a pair of wooden sandals and palkhi are protected in a glass box.

    The Gurudwara offers food and accomondation to visitors. 

    We end our tour with a simple lunch here.

    Continue your trip from Lakhpat

    Jakhau was once a port and now is a fishing village.
    Mandvi was a summer destination for the Kutch royals. It’s known for beach. It was a thriving port from 18th to 19th century. Must visit Durgapur for its temples and merchants’ houses. 

    Day 9 Ahmedabad

    Places of Interest

    Sidi Saiyyed Mosque
    Teen Darwaza 
    Jama Mosque 
    Neighborhood 

    Direct bus from Bhuj to Ahmedabad is convenient, takes 7 hours or more with traffic. I only have few hours left before sunset to explore. I chose the places closed to my stay. Teen Darwaza is on the eastern of Bhadra Fort, built in the 15th century. In 200 meters is where the 15th century old Jama Masjid to be found. The extravagant carving on the minarets that you still appreciate today. Auto-rickshaws speeding through the crowd. 

     Tip: Bring a scarf and dress up modest to visit important religious sites. 

    Walk another 250 meters to Chandravilas Restaurant for some famous Indian snacks and freshly made jilabi and fafda.  

    Day 10 Ahmedabad: Historical Walk

    This guide takes you to some major temples and house clusters. 

    Plough the intricate narrow lanes of Ahmedabad’s old city, the living museum exhibits its rich history of maritime trade convey through its lavish houses. These houses are either still occupied or locked up today. 

    Ahmedabad’s old city consists of 360 pols. Pols are clusters of houses made up a small neighborhood. Inhabitants are not related to everyone and does not all share the same religions. 

    I’d recommend you to book a 2.5 hours tour with Historical Walk if you keen to learn more about the heart of city. 

    Tip: Many of the places of interests are not list on google map. Ask anyone they will point you to the direction. Some pols connect to main road following small lanes. You will derail your plan. 

    As early as 9am, I began my tour from Old Stock Market (1) , it’s where Manek Chowk (3) locates. Stack up of tables, the market is very much empty. Behind the Stock Market, Rani no Hajiro is a complex of tombs of Ahmed Shah’s Queens. Mahurat Ni Pol (27) is on the same market. You will see a blue plaque. Chandla Ol is an old market for brass pooja items. In 120 meters on Ghandi Street, you will find many bookstores under a bridge. That’s known as Fernandes Bridge (7) . 

    Astapad Jain Derasar  (10) erected in a dense Doshiwada Ni Pol (9)  in 19th century. Its highly ornamented carvings is stunning. On the right corner of this block, a 180 years old Harkunvar Baa Ni Haveli features unique Indo-Chinese elements – dragon ornaments. With 60 rooms makes it the largest haveli in the old city. I just stared at the balcony.

    I already lost myself here. Get some snacks and tea! 

    I walked to Chaumukhji Ni Pol for Dodhia Haveli , which has converted to a guesthouse now. The entrances pillars and the splendid motifs carving worth to walk here. Some famous Jain temples on this walk including Shantinath Jain Derasar and Ajitnath Bhagwan Jain Derasar

    Maybe you think that have to go to Adalaji to see the stepwell. Amritavarishini Vav is on Ghandi Road, 1km from Chaumukhji Ni Pol. 

    My final destination is Shree Swaminarayan Mandir Kalupur . Noorani Bara Handi looks a little shady from outside; it serves delicious varieties of kebab and other tandooris. Azad Restaurant & Corporate Sweets, Zaveriwad is a place for sweet and snacks, but also serves vegetarian meals. 

    Useful Information
    Download Ahmedabad Old City map 
    List of Havelis

    Day Trip from Ahmedabad

    The Dawoodi Bohra community contributed to some colorful havelis in Siddhpur

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