Scootering is another way to see Colombia. Salento is part of our 10-day scootering itineary in Colombia. Salento is a colorful, small town in the Andes mountains of Colombia. It is known for vibrant colonial buildings and artisan coffees. It has many independently owned coffee shops serving a variety of beans from the area. The bustling square has parking spaces, where restaurants and ice parlors are found. When driving in the town, the brightly colored houses immediately caught the eye. Small coffee shops hidden in small alleys. It has supermarkets, restaurants, pharmacies, etc. Having a scooter means that I don’t have to stay in town. Many eco-guesthouses are outside of town. Jeep is a popular local transport, hop-on and off.
April is the rainy season!
April to November are the rainy months! It usually rains in the afternoon. Sometimes it starts pouring, and sometimes it just drizzles. Don’t forget to bring a pair of hiking/waterproof shoes, a rain jacket, extra shoes/ socks, and quick-dry clothing. During the rainy season, it is humid, and clothes don’t dry fast.
Carry Cash
Most places take credit cards. I would still carry cash with me. Exchanging currencies in the airport is the easiest, unless you find a better deal on the streets. ATMs are available in Salento and Filandia, and in big cities, but not in villages. Some individual farm lodges prefer cash.
Itinerary
Periera – Salento 37 kilometers
Cocora Valley
Where to stay?
We stayed in La Cabaña Eco-Hotel ($60 – 76 / 2 pax) for 3 nights; it offers a comfy bed, a hot shower, and a heater. It has two properties: one is near the main quarter, and the one is by the riverside – a short walk from the main house. It is in a convenient location, on the main road to Cocora Valley. Spacious common shared balcony, where games, books, and a sofa are, and it offers 24-hour tea, etc. Take a short walk to the roaring river and listen to the frogs croaking if you stay in the riverside bangalow. Conveniently, the ecolodge offers a Colombian menu for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. We had our delicious dinners here for 3 nights. This hotel is in a cattle ranch. View of the calves and cattle from the dining room, and the milkman in a sprung cart in the morning.
Short Hike
Hiking here is a bit tricky with highly concentrated land ownership. Cattle roam in the rolling hills, making it seem easy to reach the hilltop. After a night of rain, the streams glide calmly through the grass fields. The hotel manager will be able to guide you to the narrow entrance from another property to the entrance of the hill. The trail is muddy, wet, and tall grass over the trail. Spot the signboards that direct you to the back of the hotel property entrance. There is no clear trail once you enter someone’s property, but fenced properties after one another. A few with electrical shock, just be careful. This is the only hike I did not bring my hiking shoes. Fortunately, the hotel has a heater that was on for the whole night to dry my running shoes.
Half-Day in Cocora Valley
Cocora Valley combines surreal natural beauty with easy access for local and international travelers. After a night of rain, we are embraced by the sun as we drive toward the valley, a cool breeze brushing our faces. The paved road winds through private farms and is quiet in the early morning – only a few jeeps with tourists passed us. Cocora Valley is home to the tallest palm trees in the world, and standing beside them—hugging their narrow trunks—feels almost unreal. From the top of the hill, lush green hills stretch along the distant horizon, giving the place the feel of a natural theme park. In the morning, the valley is calm, and the horse caravans are ready to take the tourists to the hilltop. This is the best time to arrive before 10 AM to avoid the crowd.
The valley is easily accessible by scooter or jeep, and many hotels organize tours for solo travelers. Landowners have converted their land into parks and charge entrance fees, and there are several paid parking lots from 2,000 to 5,000 COP. There are several ways to explore the valley. If you are into long hikes, consider a 5-kilometer and a 12-kilometer looped trail. The trail is obvious and easily accessible. You have to pay at the entrance.
Horse Riding to the Waterfall
Horse riding is another way to access the forest around Salento. Many organized horse riding tours are offered by hotels and tour agencies. We booked a tour from our hotel, with the cattle caretaker as the tour guide. It is a four-hour horse ride and 30 minutes at the waterfall. Again, the problem is trespassing on others’ properties and finding the gate to another property.
Driving around: Coffee Farm Hopping
Coffee farms are on the outskirts of Salento. Salento’s coffee farms are easy to visit and provide a perfect day trip for travelers interested in culture and nature. It offers experience in rich coffee culture and local flavor. Many of them offer a coffee tour with a glimpse into how coffee is prepared from planting, picking, washing, drying, and roasting. The tour introduces a wide variety of coffee plants in Colombia and the varieties actually exported.
Coffee farmers are artists of their beans, and every one of them has a distinctive flavor or a hint of it. I would recommend visiting a big farm for more varieties and flavor, and small farms for artisan flavor. I bought one bag from each farm I visited. Roads to coffee farms are not always paved, some with high-grade downhill, making it a challenge to visit some faraway coffee farms. Driving on the Salento-Vda-Palestina road, coffee farm signboards are along the road. It is driven into many villages. My first stop is Las Acacias Coffee Farm. Two ways to sustain farming practice by all coffee farms are to offer coffee tours and coffee drinks. Nonetheless, enjoy a cup of espresso with a strong chocolate flavor and a hint of berry, while looking out at the coffee farm and banana trees. Ocaso Coffee House is a large coffee plantation in the Salento. It offers lodging, tours, and a coffee shop. On top of that, its coffee varieties are stunning, especially Geisha, originally from Ethiopia gained a strong hold in the area. Later, saw their coffee shop in the Plaza de Bolivar. I loved the natural process with a hint of fruitiness.
While in town…Coffee Hopping
Every corner you turn in the Salento streets, there is a coffee shop with each has its unique flavor. While taking a scooter to Salento, many parking spaces are available in the Plaza de Bolivar or on the street for free. They are small and sometimes unique in their flavors. Kairos Coffee is a surprise find, offering a cozy environment with a few tables. Their menu includes food and drinks. A customer met there who loved their iced coffee, as he said that not many places serve it. I always go for espresso. Café Origenes Col is a local roastery that has an urban-sleek interior and hand-pour coffee. While enjoying a cup there, you slowly sink into the dense smell of coffee. While coffee hopping, it winds around the colorful houses and takes endless photos. Plaza de Bolivar is the central square in Salento, where you will take your final rest.